| Bratislava's time to shine |
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| Sunday, 02 May 2004 | |
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In the same way that every Irish band that makes it into the charts is "the new U2", there isn't an eastern European city with a medieval square that hasn't been mooted as a replacement for Prague, now that it has succumbed to stag partyitis. Maybe it's the shortage of direct flights or defining landmarks, but Bratislava has so far escaped the intense scrutiny that has seen prices in places like Riga, Tallinn and Dubrovnik spiral towards western levels. Budget isn't a problem in the Slovak capital, with double hotel rooms available for as little as €30, restaurants where it is impossible to spend more than a tenner and traditional wine taverns that will keep the local - and very cheeky - Ryzling coming for just 20 cent a glass. While there's plenty going on out in the suburbs, the heart of Bratislava is the Stare Mesto (Old Town), which dates back to the 13th century. It contains such national treasures as the Archbishop's Palace, Michael's Gate, St Martin's Cathedral and the stunning Slovak National Theatre. Towering majestically over all of these is Bratislava Castle, a much-loved symbol of Slovakian nationalism and the scene of some wild partying in 1993 when Slovakia's divorce from the Czech Republic was finalised. It somehow managed to survive World War II relatively unscathed, which is more than can be said for the 6,800 Russian soldiers who died liberating the city from the Germans in 1945. The mass grave where they are buried is the site of the Slavin War Memorial, an obelisklike sculpture that dominates the Bratislava skyline. If you've any energy left after climbing its 200 steps - don't even think about it with young children - we heartily recommend a visit to the 360 metre-long summer bobsleigh track. The passive option would be to take in a game at one of the city's league football clubs - SK Slovan, Inter and Artmedia Petrzalka. Whichever team you pledge your allegiance to, the best seats in the house won't cost more than €3. Most of the nightlife - and it is plentiful - is centred around the Rebarborova district and its maze of cobbled streets. Slovakia's bright young things might prefer western-style discos, but venture down the darker alleys and you'll find drinking establishments where the music is of the traditional accordion variety. Okay, a quick question: you're a presidential candidate accused by a TV news reporter of taking bribes. Do you: A) vigorously deny the charges in order to maintain voter confidence; B) politely decline to comment; or C) punch the offending journalist in the face and storm off threatening retribution? Slovakian opposition leader Vladi m ir Me ciar plumped for the last option and immediately doubled his approval rating - highlighting a national penchant for bucking the system that dates back to Soviet times. If somebody can cock a snook at authority and get away with it, reckons your average Slovak, good luck to them. Meciar, an ultra rightwinger, was narrowly beaten in the end, but remains a considerable thorn in the new liberal president's side. One of the few things for which the country's former communist rulers are not vilified is the building of the Bridge of the National Uprising (now known as the Novy Most or New Bridge), a futuristic structure that straddles the Danube. Although its revolving restaurant has long since seized up - mainte-nance is still low on the list of Slovak priorities - it provides spectacular views of the Stare Mesto and the river. The Danube is navigated daily by the Bratislava to Vienna hydrofoil, an almost twohour trip that costs €15. With a pair of binoculars you will see the ruins of Devin Castle,the country's most popular tourist attraction, which presides over the confluence of the Danube and the Morava. Although the inner courtyard was destroyed in 1809 by Napoleonic troops, the walls and battlements remain intact and are worth the 15-minute climb it takes to reach them. A number 29 bus from under the Novy Most (New Bridge) will get you there in half-an-hour and costs 50 cent. When you're done touring the countryside, there are all manners of local delicacies to be sampled in Bratislava's restaurants, cafes and aforementioned wine taverns, which are renowned for their meal deals. Must-try dishes include Kolozarska Kapusta (beef goulash with sauerkraut in cream sauce), Bryndzove Halusky (dumplings baked with sheep's milk cheese & bacon) and Cesnakova Polievka (garlic soup) which is served in a hollowed-out toasted loaf of bread. Everywhere in eastern Europe being close to everywhere else,youcan hopon a train and be in Budapest in two hours, Prague in five and Warsaw in 11. The Polish capital doesn't figure in too many tourist itineraries but is worth a visit - not only for the sightseeing, but for the locals who are still genuinely welcoming of visitors. This can be tested by walking into a bar and seeing how long it is before somebody joins you for a shot of Zubrowka. Vodka-drinking in Poland is a national pastime, with more than 80 different varieties to choose from and licensing hours that are rarely enforced. It is impossible to walk any distance in Warsaw without being reminded of the terrible devastation wrought on it by the Nazis. By the end of the war, 850,000 of the city's 1.5 million citizens were dead; the majority perishing in the Auschwitz and Treblinka death camps. What Hitler's blitzkrieg tactics couldn't destroy was the Varsawian spirit - the brick-by-brick rebuilding of the Rynek Starego Miasto (Old Town Square) was so successful that people don't realise that 60 years ago it was a pile of rubble. Whether it's Warsaw or Bratislava that takes your fancy, the message is the same: get there fast. As beneficial as it is likely to be to their economies, acceding to theEU on May1 is bound to have a homogenising effect on Poland and Slovakia, which will lessen their charms. For now, eastern Europe remains a wonderfully exotic place to explore. Factfile Cost: about €320 per person for flights, transfers and three nights accommodation How to get there: Czech Airlines and Aer Lingus both operate services to Bratislava via Prague, but a cheaper option is to fly with the latter to Vienna and transfer to the Slovak capital by train or bus. Fares start at €220, but book well in advance. Where to stay: while `business class' accommodation is almost as expensive as it is in the West, you can get a basic but scrupulously clean double-room in the Hotel Incheba (Viedenska cesta 7. Tel: 02±6727±2000) for €50. When to go: the summer when living is invariably done outdoors and December when you can not only act out your John Le Carre cold war spy fantasies, but also take in one of the fairytale-like Christmas fairs. Time difference: Slovakia is on Central European Time (CET), one hour ahead of Ireland. Electricity: 220 volts with two-pin plugs Currency: the Koruny. There are 40 Koruny to the euro, which is also widely accepted. Cost of a meal for two (excluding drinks): you can eat well for as little as €15. What to buy: a Slovakian ice hockey jersey with `Satan' on the back. National hero Miroslav Satan plies his trade with the Buffalo Sabres. What to avoid: the rip-off taxi drivers at the train station. Make sure to agree on the fare before driving off. Useful websites: www.spectacularslovakia.sk and www.enjoyslovakia.com Source: ThePost.ie |
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